On this shore, it's nearly winter; the tourists have left. Only the locals now, walking their dogs or sprinting along the shore. Volunteers wander the bridges, skirt the river, tracking with mobile phones and apps the paths water might follow— tidal pools, inlets, spontaneous streams rising in the aftermath of heavy rainfall and nor'easters. Maximum inundation levels are higher each year. Citizen survey as dress rehearsal: a watery finale made of all the scenes in disaster movies like the one where a woman gives up her seat on a rescue helicopter to reconcile with her father. The two of them together face a megatsunami that wipes out all of Virginia Beach and the east coast. Sometimes I also dream of walls of water, the moon's unblinking eye the only blessing above. Afterwards, every salt cathedral washed clean or ground to sand. No one has seen this kind of film: rice terraces and temples dissolve; and sugarcane fields in the delta. What god would survive to pelt water with rock and clay so islands rise again? An archipelago inked like the first sentence in history; and we, rowing our fragile craft. The sea is always there, was always there. Even when they're not calling to water, our bodies, made of 70% water, call to water.