There's one on which an airport was built; but it closed for many years, having been deemed too dangerous for both large and small aircraft: postage-stamp runway, sharp edge over which the sky dropped into the windless gorge. There are some who never dream of leaving the only world they know. Not the honey buzzards, serpent eagles, mud-striped falcons; guaiaberos calling bubutok-bubutok through distant groves, remembering the smell of ripe guavas.