A farmer grew rice and raised chickens on a tiny apron of land in Bacnotan. His house had walls of woven reed; a carabao tied to a post in the yard hardly blinked at flies, drawn to the smell of dung. Young and newly hopeful, before the farm, right after the last of the old wars when planes dropped large, explosive husks out of the sky, he came to the city to find work. When he was given an apron and told to start in a hotel kitchen did he sing as he chopped onions, eggplant and bitter gourd for stew in large vats? He was not the one to ladle them onto the plates of those who ate. He did not hear if they spat the bitterness into a napkin, or marveled at the undertone of recent misfortune in each bite. My mother was this farmer's daughter. She taught me how to salt bittermelon slices and let them sit; then wash them under cold running water until even the taste of difficulty felt hard-worn, clean.