Chicago, 1871: a summer of little or no rain, a city constructed of wood. In the O'Leary barn on De Koven street, a cow supposedly kicked over a lantern, starting the blaze which rapidly spread from block to block, aided by a southwesterly wind. Did it have arson on its mind, just so a cadre of architects could usher in a new era of steel- girdled skyscrapers glinting above the river at sunrise, slate and terra cotta tiles and roofs? Daniel Burnham drew up the plan for the city; he also made the blueprint for a colonial hill station in an archipelago on the other side of the world. Its original bones are hard to see now, underneath unchecked development: high rises, hillsides packed with houses where I remember thick stands of pine used to grow. One night in March, Block 3 and 4 of the Baguio public market went up in flames. There are no official findings yet, though stories are starting to circulate: this is where you would buy chicken, have its feathers singed on stoves fed by LPG tanks, then plucked and slowly beaten for that native dish called pinikpikan: offering to gods and ancestors who ward off evils and accidents, as well as possibly cause them.