I buy them when they're still part green and firm, that inside sweetness not yet fermenting. We're taught the process might be hastened if they're dropped into a paper bag and kept out of the light, or buried in the rice bin. It will be days before their skins turn soft and yielding, before the gold aura of their musk declares their readiness for opening. Then cleave one cheek on each side, eat around the seed or heart: most sweet, closest to bone.