If you cannot pray or have forgotten how to pray, you can ask one of the temple clerics to do it for you. You can write it down on a slip of paper, and as you hold a palm- ful of incense sticks, she will mediate. Walk to the front where others have lain offerings of fruit and flowers, where fingers of smoke from flickering candles link hands with those of your dead in the life beyond. After the rain, the hills soften from brown to almost green. Spears of light shingle rooftops with amber. In some countries, there are only two kinds of seasons, each one the other's lost sock or glove.