Our guides ease the boat through narrow channels until we get to open water, point out observation towers in the distance. Closer by, stretches of marsh-meadow where hermit crabs flip houses all day. Flocks of dark-headed laughing gulls with lightly rouged bills— their numbers now severely diminished. An eagle perches on a post then takes to the sky. We learn about the wrecked sailing vessel carrying hogs in pens; how surviving animals swam to shore, giving the island this name. I prefer Machipongo, Algonquin name which means fine dust and flies, or the sands that constantly shift; and clouds of mosquitoes rising from the reeds. Never stopping, undulant histories overlap in piles of fog as fronds of eel grass work to quietly leach carbon from the water, weave shelter for a world of creatures.