As a young man, one of my grandfathers went to work as a cook in a hotel built in the 1900s. My youngest daughter and I stayed there on a visit years ago. It rained almost every day. But we had strong black coffee and ate breakfasts of fried egg and venison or fried egg and smoked fish with a relish of onions and tomato in a room where generals and soldiers dined during colonial times. We walked in the sopping rain— I wanted to show her the cathedral where people sheltered during the war; there had been a crack running all the way from the door and up the aisle, but like any kind of scar, it was hardly visible anymore. Even then, it was a place mostly full of ghosts for me. A statue of the crucified Christ still lay on its back in a dusty glass case. During Lent, they took off the lid and the faithful could come and touch their fingers to all the places where the wounds would be.
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